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Khumbu Climbing School Program - Instructors
Adam Knoff- Salt Lake City, Utah (photo at the KCS, January 2006 by X Lee)
This will be Adam's fifth year and he is Director of Climbing for 2008."I first visited Nepal in 2004 as one of six invited instructors participating in the inaugural Khumbu Climbing School. My imagination and excitement was piqued. Knowing only the stories I'd read and heard of the legendary Sherpa people, the chance to work with them first hand seemed to me a wonderful opportunity.
For the past several years I have guided and climbed around the world. The reputation of the Sherpa people as amazingly strong climbers is common knowledge among international climbing communities. What I had not realized is that the climbing strength these people possess has been created in large part without the basic training and fundamental skills needed to make this type of occupation as safe as possible.
The strength of the Sherpa people is equaled only by their spirit and incomparable generosity to all who visit their homeland. It is this compassion that changed me forever. The combination of teaching valuable vocational climbing skills in the most majestic mountain setting on earth with the most generous warm-hearted people I have ever met moved me beyond expectation. It is this transformation which has led me back to the Khumbu each year as a volunteer instructor.
I am honored and delighted to accept the appointment as Director of Climbing for the January 2007 Khumbu Climbing School. I see it as my goal and responsibility to keep the KCS on its forward track as a respected vocational climbing skills program for all who participate as students."
Pete Athans- Seattle, Washington
Peter's name has been synonymous with the exploration of Mt. Everest for nearly two decades. He has led or participated in sixteen expeditions to the mountain and has personally summited seven times, more than any other climber of non-Sherpa ethnicity. He has also distinguished himself in the Himalaya with speed ascents of Annapurna South, Pumori, Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu. In addition, he has led expeditions to Manaslu, Makalu and K2 and made the first alpine-style ascent of the Breaking Point ridge, Alaska's southeast spur of Mt. Hunter. When he isn't exploring his own objectives, he guides climbers to the highest points of all seven continents. Peter is a strong proponent of Sherpa culture, documenting their prodigious talents at high altitude and their contribution to mountaineering history. Recently he has taken a keen interest in the exploration of both the physical and cultural landscapes of Tibet and Western China, home to countless untrammeled peaks and unique, vanishing cultures. He is a board member of the Himalayan Cataract Project (HCP), which brings eye care to those suffering from cataract blindness in the Himalaya. (In the spring of 2005 Peter led a successful HCP expedition in Nepal.) In addition to film and writing, Peter studies Asian history, Buddhist philosophy and surrealist poetry. He and his wife Liesl Clark created and are in charge of The Magic Yeti Library Project - (see link to the left). 2008 is Pete's third year as a KCS instructor.
Amy Bullard- Bozeman, Montana (photo at the KCS, January 2006 by X Lee)
"Climbing in Nepal has been popular since the 1950's; yet most Nepalis will never get a chance to try it. KCS is an opportunity for Nepalis to become familiar with their world, as we know it. KCS brings safety and fun to climbing as an avocation and a profession for Nepalis living and working in the mountains. By teaching basic climbing safety systems, as well as English and First Aid, the students are more ready for hire and can express themselves more effectively in this rapidly growing trekking industry. After climbing in the magic kingdom of Nepal for the past 14 years, it is tremendously meaningful (and fun!!) for me to work with these people who have taught me so much."
Guide for 11 years in North America, Nepal, Tibet, France. New routes in Peru including Artesonraju, Millishraju, Jatunriti, and Colquecruz. First ascent of Dos Cuernos Southern Patagonian Icecap, Argentina. Many Himalayan expeditions including Mustagh Tower in Pakistan, first ascent Melanphulan in Nepal, unclimbed peaks Hongu Nepal, led first unsupported American Women's expedition to an 8,000 meter peak- Cho Oyu in Tibet, summitted Everest in 2004 as a guide and climbing double for Universal Studios. Big walls in Yosemite and Zion. Guides for Exum, Chicks with Picks, Women that Rock, Geographic Expeditions, and Alpine Ascents International. Marmot sponsored athlete. 2008 will be Amy's third year with the KCS.
Peter Carse- Bozeman, Montana (photo at the KCS, January 2006 by X Lee)
"Over the course of my many trips to Nepal, I have always been the recipient of boundless generosity and good will from the local people. In the Khumbu, employment in climbing and trekking occupations are sometimes the only option, and there is the need for training in basic safety systems. I'm thankful to have this opportunity to use some of the things I have learned in life, to give something back to these wonderful people."
Guide for 10 years. Twenty-eight years of climbing throughout western North America. Numerous expeditions to Nepal Himalaya including Makalu, Ama Dablam, East Kangchung, Naya Kanga, Island Peak, unnamed peaks in Hongu, and first ascent Melanphulan, Hinku Valley. Mustagh Tower, Pakistan. Solo climbs and new routes in Peru including Alpamayo, Huascaran, Artesonraju, Millishraju, Jatunriti, and Colquecruz. First ascent Dos Cuernos, Patagonia, 2004. Big walls in Yosemite and Zion. 2008 will be Peter's 3rd year with the KCS.
Bryce Brown and Sunny Twelker - Thunder Bay, Ontario
"After a combined six trips to Nepal, we have many close Sherpa friends and even an adoptive family! We are both enormously thrilled to have this incredible opportunity to share with, and learn from the students at the KCS. We feel honoured to be involved in a program that promotes the safety of high altitude Sherpa guides. We look forward to continuing to experience and embrace the generosity, dignity, and spirituality of these amazing people."
Bryce and Sunny are both climbers and ER docs with an interest in wilderness medicine and rescue. They work and play primarily in the wilderness of Northwestern Ontario, but also love to climb the mountains, rocks and ice of the incredible Canadian Rockies. Bryce has traveled to Alaska (Denali), Yukon (Logan), the lower US, Tibet (Kula Kangri) and Nepal (Everest, Ama Dablam, Island Peak). He has also spent 4 seasons on Everest as an expedition doctor, researcher and climber. Sunny grew up with the Canadian Rockies as her playground, and has more recently adventured in Africa and Nepal (Lobuche East, Ama Dablam). 2008 will be their first year as KCS instructors.
"The Khumbu region of Nepal is one of the most spectacular places on
earth, and the people who live there are equally breathtaking. Like
others instructing with the KCS, spending time in Nepal has taught me
the meaning of selflessness, strength, and generosity. I'm looking
forward to passing on some of my own knowledge in return for these
Nepali lessons. To put it simply, what the Khumbu Climbing School is
trying to do is sincerely good; good for the students, good for the
instructors, and the good for the region. I'm excited to help the
program work toward it's laudable goals, and of course I can't wait
to get back to a place and a people I truly love."
Lincoln learned to climb in Yosemite National Park as a young child,
and after getting a philosophy degree from Yale he returned to the
park to work as a climbing ranger for the Park Service. What started
as an excuse to live and climb in Yosemite Valley for a while after
college turned into a decade of work with Yosemite's rescue team and
wilderness department. Lincoln has traveled and climbed around the
world and recently began a second career as a photographer and film
maker, a passion that brought him to Nepal in 2004 to film for a TV
documentary about the Everest medical clinic. Currently Lincoln
lives in the Yosemite area and works full time as a documentary
producer and cameraman while continuing to work with Yosemite's
search and rescue team. 2008 will be Lincoln's second year as an instructor.
Kris has organized three different expeditions (1997, 1998, and 2000) to Peru's Cordillera Blanca to photograph alpine first ascents and ski first descents. Among his accomplishments there are new routes on Caraz III and Santa Cruz Norte, and the first ski descents of Tocllaraju and the Shield route on Huascaran Sur (22,205'), the highest mountain in the Tropics.
In Feb, 2000, Kris and a group of extreme skiiers and snowboarders went to The Antarctic Peninsula aboard the converted Russian scientific vessel M/V Schulayken. Despite atrocious weather characteristic of the region, the group made four serious ski descents; Kris captured images of the wildlife and geography of this remote continent.
In June, 1999 Kris and a group of seven climbers and skiers went to a never-visited glacier in Alaska's Fairweather Range. Only 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean, they encountered storms which dumped 6 feet of snow in 24 hours. They also made the first ascents and descents of half a dozen untrodden peaks. KCS instructor in 2006, 2007.
Luanne Freer- Bozeman, Montana (photo at Mt. Everest Base Camp)
She runs the nonprofit HRA-USA and continues to return to volunteer and direct the medical clinic on Everest every spring. www.everester.org/.
Brad Johnson- Ridgway, Colorado (photo on Chopicaiqui 2007) "My first trip to Nepal and in the Khumbu Valley was in 1987. It was a trekking trip just to see and experience the magic of the Himalaya. Starting with that first trip and continuing with other trips to the Khumbu Valley, I have had the privilege to develop Sherpa and Nepali friends and have received their warmth and open arms to visit their homes or have climbed with them and tried to keep up.
The 2008 season will be my first time to visit the Khumbu Valley in winter and to work with the Khumbu Climbing School. I feel honored to be asked to be a part of this program and have the opportunity to share my knowledge with the students and learn from the other instructors. I can't wait to get there."
Philip
Henderson- Vernal, Utah (photo at the
KCS, January 2006 by X
Lee)
"The
Khumbu Climbing School (KCS) is an awesome
experience for everyone. After being involved in
the school last season I see the need to help
extend the knowledge and experience of the Nepal
climbing community. I am very fortunate to be a
part of the effort put forth by the Alex Lowe
Charitable Foundation (ALCF). Working with the KCS
staff, and with the Nepalese population is vibrant,
fun, and exciting as well as educational for me and
the students that participate in the
program."
Seth
Hobby- Bellingham, Washington (Seth, in white visor, photo at the KCS, January 2006 by Ross Lynn)
"Throughout my travels to mountain regions, I have never found any people as giving as the Sherpas of Nepal. I have been to Nepal six times and going on my seventh trip now and I have amazingly strong and rewarding relationships with the Sherpas of the Khumbu Region. They have taught me the true meaning of selfishness, spirituality and care. I have studied the Nepali language with friend and co-instructor Renan Ozturk, deepening my connection to the people of Nepal and allowing a greater sense of freedom while wandering the high hills. The Khumbu Climbing School allows me the oppertunity to give back to the Sherpas and teach skills that will keep them safe in their work as high altitude porters and guides throughout the Himalaya."
Seth has significant ascents in the Nepal Himalaya, Alaska Range, Chugach, Coastal Range B.C., Canadian Rockies, North Cascades, Sierra, and Colorado Rockies. He is a senior guide for the American Alpine Institute Bellingham, Washington. KCS
instructor 2006, 2007.
Eric
Knoff-Salt Lake City, Utah
Whit started climbing in the Tetons when he was 16 years old. His hometown of Cincinnati, Ohio never looked the same after a summer in Jackson Hole and two years later he moved to Montana and took up climbing in earnest. With a fall back career as a social studies teacher on hold, Whit has spent the last 10 years focusing on hard rock and ice climbs from Yosemite to Wyoming. Instructed for the KCS in 2005, 2006, & 2007.
Steve has been climbing for over 25 years and teaching climbing classes for 15. He has climbed rock, ice, alpine, and big wall routes throughout the western U.S. and Canada. He has been involved with many expeditions to the St. Elias Range and the Alaska Range, including an exploratory trip to the Surprise Glacier area with several first ascents. In 1999, he and two partners trekked from the south shore to the north shore of Iceland which involved a 65-mile crossing of the Vatnajškull, Europe's largest glacier. Steve also summited Aconcagua in 1998. He has put up new ice routes in Utah, and ice, rock, and alpine routes in Montana. Between climbing trips, Steve is a Professor of Chemistry at The University of Montana Western. 2008 will be his first year as a KCS Instructor.
A long-time Northwest mountaineer, Dave has climbed and guided throughout the Himalayas, South America, the Cascades, Alaska Range and Russia. He has traveled and climbed extensively over his lifetime and has worked as a full-time guide for Alpine Ascents for the past five years. Dave has led expeditions to Everest, Vinson, Elbrus, Ama Dablam, Island Peak, Cho-Oyu, Mexico, Aconcagua, Denali, Bolivia, Rainier and many Washington and Alaska mountaineering climbs and courses. He has completed his Level III Avalanche training. His grasp for languages, history and climbing have made him both an educated and successful guide for many of domestic and international expeditions. In 2002, Dave received the AAC Mountain Adventure Award. Recently Dave summited Everest three times as a leader of 2004 - 2006 guide teams and successfully led Mount Vinson, Cho-Oyu and Island Peak Expeditions and put up a new route on Mount Vinson with Todd Passey. Dave also summited Carstensz Pyramid twice as the leader of a successful 2006 expedition which put 7 team members on top. 2007 was Dave's first year as a Khumbu Climbing School Instructor. He will be there again in 2008.
Renan
Ozturk- Barrington, Rhode Island (photo
at the KCS, January 2006 by X
Lee)
Renan discovered his passion for climbing while attending
Colorado College in Colorado Springs, Colorado. As a
member of the small community of climbers there, he honed
his skills, deepened his connection to the sport of
climbing and dreamed of the remote and beautiful places
it could take him. Renan graduated with a degree in
biology but not before traveling to Nepal to study the
language and culture of a country to which he is still
intimately connected. During the last three years Renan
has spent multiple seasons climbing in Indian Creek,
Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Squamish, and the Bugaboos. The
stunning scenery of these locations serves as inspiration
for Renan’s other passion, his artwork. Footage of
Renan’s onsight solo of the 300-foot North Six
Shooter tower in the Utah desert can be seen in the
current climbing film Return2Sender: Parallelojams. KCS
instructor 2006, 2007.
Kevin Tatsugawa- Flagstaff, Arizona
"I have been fortunate to have climbed and guided in Nepal, Russia, Thailand, Alaska, California, Arizona, Nevada, Idaho, Utah, and other locales in America. I have been to Nepal several times since 1993. I have climbed, guided, conducted research, presented papers, and worked as a volunteer instructor during my travels there. I have always enjoyed getting to know the local mountain people in Nepal and consider many of them close friends. I have been teaching wilderness medicine courses for 3 years at the university level and teaching in foreign countries for 5 years. When I heard about the KCS, I knew that it was an extremely worthwhile endeavor that I wanted to support in any way that I could. Luckily, I was chosen to teach the wilderness medicine courses 2 years ago and have found the school rewarding and the Nepalis enchanting and very appreciative. I have always distinguished between being a tourist and a traveler; a tourist goes to see and a traveler goes to do. I have always wanted to be a traveler, especially when it is working with good people pursuing altruistic goals such as those of the KCS!!"
Heidi
Wirtz- Boulder, Colorado (photo - in
red jacket- at the KCS, January 2006 by X
Lee) Heidi’s
love for adventure and exploration has been the
driving force behind her climbing accomplishments.
She enjoys all types of climbing, finding herself
high on giant rock walls and frozen waterfalls
throughout the world. She has been climbing in the
U.S. as well as parts of Canada, Baja, Great
Britain, South America, and India over the past
twelve years and doesn’t plan to ease up on
her globe-trotting any time soon, with plans to
climb in Europe, Tazmania, and Greenland in the
near future. While continually raising the bar for
her personal performance and for women’s
climbing in general, Heidi envisions a broader view
for her role in the sport in the years ahead,
hoping to do more work with people in need around
the world and create opportunities to “give
back, help and inspire.” KCS
instructor 2005, 2006, 2007.
Fabrizio
Zangrilli- Boulder, Colorado (photo taken Schoolhouse Creek - Cody,
Wyoming by Alexandre Lussier)
"After more
than 15 trips to Nepal and Tibet, including Everest,
Makalu, Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma, Nuptse South Face, to
guide and climb personally it is great to be able to give
back in some way to the Sherpa community. If I can help a
student become safer in the mountains and have greater
earning potential then it will be a great start towards
giving back."
Fabrizio has climbed and/or put up new routes in Alaska,
Nepal, Pakistan, Tibet, Eastern & Western Europe,
Peru, Argentina, South Africa and Queen Maud Land,
Antarctica. Mountain guide and consultant to outdoor
industry equipment companies for ten years. Khumbu Climbing School
Instructor 2007. With thanks to
Adventure Medical Kits - Alpinist Magazine - Anonymous - Apple Computer - Arcturus Motion Pictures - Artshoppe - Backcountry.com - Banff Mountain Film Festival - Barnard Construction - Barrel Mountaineering - Big Sky Wind Drinkers - Black Diamond - Bluewater Ropes- -Camp USA- -Charisma Productions - Climb On! - Climbing Magazine - EPIC online magazine - Fox River Mills - Grivel North America - High Performance Sports, Ltd. - International Mountain Guides - Kahtoola - Kent Mountain Adventures - Kneeland Gallery - La Sportiva - Mackenzie River Northwest - Mammut USA - Merica Design - Montana Aleworks - Montana State University - Mountain Gear - Mountain Link - Nepal Mountaineering Association - New England Ropes - Northern Lights - Omega Pacific - Osprey Packs - Outdoor Research - Outside Magazine - Patagonia - Petzl/Charlet - Prana - Rite in the Rain - Rock and Ice Magazine - Sack's of Bozeman - Sam Medical Products - Selby's - Serac Films- Snowbird Renaissance Center - Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort - Sterling Ropes - Summit Coffee - Telluride Mountain Film Festival - The Bishop Family Foundation - The Bos Foundation - The Charles J. Wylie Jr. Foundation - The Communities Foundation of Boulder County - The Communities Foundation of Texas - The Dick Bass Foundation - The J. Paul Grayson Foundation - The Mountain Institute - The North Face - The Pease Family Fund - The Schlesinger Scholarship Fund - The Snowbird Renaissance Center - The Tom Brokaw Family Foundation - Trango Climbing Gear - Timex - Vasque - Wasatch Backcountry Rescue - Wilderness Adventures
Women's Adventure Magazine - Yates Gear
Lincoln Else-Yosemite, California
Kris Erikson- Livingston, Montana (photo in the
KCS gear room with Panuru, January 2006 by Ross Lynn)
"My first opportunity to visit Nepal came in 2005 when I began instructing with the KCS. The inspiring beauty that I saw, and the people I came to know through that experience has kept me coming back. Having a chance to be immersed in another culture is an opportunity not to be missed."
Ross moved to Bozeman in 1997 and began to expand on the climbing experiences he had in high school. Since then, he has traveled on expeditions to Canada, South America, New Zealand, China, Tibet, and Nepal. Ross works as an editor for Off The Grind, a Montana monthly publication, as well as a freelance photographer, and part-time musician. Instructed for the KCS in 2005, 2006, & 2007.
"I
work for KCS because it gives me the opportunity to be at
the top of the world and give what I love most to the
people who need it most. There is nothing better
than running around in the Khumbu with ten sherpas ice
climbing every day, what more could a climber
want?"
"This is my first trip to Nepal and I am honored to be involved with KCS. I can think of no better way to experience Nepal for the first time than to be with a group of talented and dedicated climbers whose goals are focused on the safety and well-being of others. The experience is especially meaningful to me as it is a way to honor the legacy of Alex, a friend and climbing partner. I hope that the contributions I can make to the school, the students, and the community can match what I believe I will gain from them"
"Is there a more spectacular place for a school? The KCS is doing great things and it's a delight to be a part of that. After working many seasons in the Solu-Khumbu it's good to offer something back to the people of the region. Not only does the KCS offer skills to help Nepalis improve their ability to work in the mountains safely but it offers the instructors and students a chance to simply have a lot of fun. What a wonderful combination! It's clear that the KCS is a great benefit to the mountain tourism industry in Nepal."
